Another FPV simulator? Yes, but this one is definitely worth trying. ShramkoGSFPV is the creation of Andrii Shramko, a Polish developer, and it ticks several boxes at once: it's free, it runs directly in the browser (Chrome is preferred), it's open source, and it uses Gaussian Splatting, a 3D modeling technique that allows for the display of complex environments smoothly.
The environments come from SuperSplat (
https://superspl.at),), where enthusiasts share their 3D scans – there are over 1,300 available. You can switch between environments using the 'N' key, and you can even upload your own scans. The downside is that these models are sometimes incomplete and often lack walls. If the scene appears too narrow or too vast, simply pause and adjust its size.
In terms of piloting, you're in control of a nano racer similar to those from BetaFPV (several models from the brand are available, although the author states that they have no affiliation with the company). The settings are surprisingly comprehensive: you can connect an EdgeTX radio via USB, choose between modes 1 and 2, configure all the sticks and buttons, fly in Acro or stabilized modes, adjust the camera's field of view and tilt, and configure the drone's physics, PID settings, and rates, all in a style similar to Betaflight. On some scenes (with the permission of their authors), you can even record your flights.
Early feedback is positive: it runs smoothly on a Mac Mini M2 as well as on older PCs. The interface is not yet translated into French, but for a free tool that doesn't require any downloads, it's a great way to practice between real-world sessions. Try it out here:
https://gsfpv.flyreelstudio.eu/en/
Source: Helicomicro
The moment I came across those first-person videos of drones weaving through buildings and diving under bridges, I knew I'd get into FPV sooner or later. These things are nothing like ordinary camera drones: a camera drone is all about “shooting steady,” while an FPV drone is all about “flying for the thrill.” There's no GPS hold or obstacle avoidance—none of those “babysitter features”—and in exchange you get far more aggressive maneuverability and a much more exhilarating view. In 2025 it became an event at China's National Games, and in 2026 it made it into the World Games, so the hype is very real.
But the first trap for beginners is choosing a drone. My advice: don't buy something expensive right out of the gate. If your budget is under ¥1,500, the BetaFPV Cetus Pro (from about ¥658) is a very polished starter kit—drone, radio and goggles all included. Its ducted, whoop-style frame just bounces off when it hits something, so it's very safe for practicing indoors. It also has a three-step difficulty progression: N mode holds altitude, F mode adds stabilization, and M mode is fully manual—exactly what you need to move from “automatic” to “manual transmission.”
If you have the budget and don't want to deal with soldering and tuning, the DJI Avata 2 is the best ready-to-fly option out there: O4 digital video transmission with 24ms latency and 1080p image quality, and with motion control you can get the hang of it in five minutes. If you want to try DIY but are scared of a soldering iron, take a look at modular kits like the SpeedyBee Bee25, which you assemble like LEGO.
Think video transmission through first: as a beginner, go straight to digital. Don't let analog's 200ms latency and 480p picture ruin your first impression—that isn't what FPV really feels like, it's the gear holding you back. Also stock up on extra batteries, since FPV drones generally only fly for 4–8 minutes.
One last piece of honest advice: before you order, buy a simulator and put in ten-odd hours of practice. Make sure you can handle the learning curve of fully manual control, then decide whether to spend the money. I went simulator first, real drone second, and it saved me a lot of detours.
Source: IT168
Oscar Liang has updated his budget parts lists for a 5-inch FPV drone, and the headline is a bit sad: two years ago a build around $100 was still realistic, but this year the cheapest complete list he can put together costs about $170.
That $170 build (frame, an F405 flight controller with 60A ESC, 2207 1950KV motors, an 800 VTX with camera, a generic ELRS 2.4GHz receiver, a 6S LiPo and props) is chosen purely on price. He is upfront that you should not expect the same quality, reliability or consistency as from established brands.
For people who care more about performance, he lays out a $250 build: Source One frame, Taker F405 stack, Axisflying motors, SpeedyBee TX800 VTX, Foxeer Razer Micro camera and a Bayck ELRS receiver, about $256 in total. It is based on analog video to keep costs down, but the frame and electronics leave room for a digital system later. He also suggests budget extras you need to start flying: a RadioMaster Pocket radio, VR04 goggles and a SkyRC B6Neo charger.
The most useful part, in my view, is the Build vs. Buy section. If you are not confident with soldering, a bind-and-fly quad can be cheaper than building: he points to the GEPRC Vapor X5 Analog at $236.99, which undercuts the $250 parts list. Building still teaches you a lot, but it is good to see an honest note that it is not always the cheaper path.
Prices change with exchange rates and sales, and he also reminds readers that AliExpress deals are worth a look if you can wait two to three weeks for shipping.
Source: Oscar Liang
Oscar Liang just put up a fun list of FPV trends that never went mainstream, and reading it felt like a trip through the hobby's history. His point is that disappearing does not mean an idea was bad. Sometimes the technology simply went another way, or a cheaper solution won.
Take angled motor mounts from around 2014 and 2015. Wedges under the motors tilted them forward so the quad did not have to pitch as far at speed, which could also cut drag. Frames got lighter and pilots simply got used to steep camera angles, so the extra hardware stopped being worth it. Custom PDB bottom plates for frames like the ZMR250 made builds very clean, but they only fit a handful of frames, and modern FCs and 4-in-1 ESCs already integrate most of that.
Soft-mounted motors were a big topic around 2017, when gyro noise was a real worry. They added weight and loose screws, and what really ended them was FC makers soft-mounting the gyro or the whole board, plus much better filtering in Betaflight. Nylon standoffs were meant to act as mechanical fuses in a crash, but they sometimes snapped in minor tumbles, so metal won.
My favourite from the list is the Chickadee Polystack from 2016, a stackable, open-source modular flight controller where you add only the modules you need, almost like Lego. It lost out because modules cost money and space while ordinary FCs kept adding OSD, BEC, blackbox memory and more UARTs on one cheap board. The list also covers 3D stereoscopic FPV cameras, servo-tilting arms, 16x16mm stacks and 4 to 6-blade props on 5-inch quads.
Personally, I found the modular FC idea the most interesting one to revisit, even if the economics never worked out.
Source: Oscar Liang
Anyone who flies FPV knows the question is not whether you will crash, but when. That's why I found a Dutch-language build guide from Zelpio, published at the end of June 2026, worth a look. It covers building a solid reserve quad that can take hard landings.
The parts list goes like this. The frame is the IT'S FPV ERA, with integrated standoffs, a canopy that works as both camera mount and bumper, and a centrally locking arm section. The motors are T-HOBBY 2306.5 1750KV, developed together with IT'S FPV and meant for 6S. The flight controller is the KISS FC Ultra, with the Voltara ESC as a plug-and-play partner. For video there's a DJI O4 Pro, and for the link a TBS Crossfire receiver with a TBS Tango 2 transmitter. According to the guide, 14 AWG is enough for the power wiring on 6S.
I liked the build order. First mount the motors, with Loctite on the screws to resist vibration. Then install the video transmitter early and route the camera cable before the stack goes on. The stack is built from the bottom up: ESC, soft dampers, then the flight controller, so vibration doesn't reach the gyro. When soldering, tin the pads first and preheat them if needed. The receiver and buzzer get their own power supply, which is handy for finding a lost quad.
Next comes configuration: install the latest firmware through the KISS GUI in the browser, use the recommended presets as a starting point, and adjust rates and switches to taste. Turn on Launch Mode and Turtle Mode, and check the motor spin direction in the Data Output tab before takeoff. A wrong motor can be reversed with the ESC Flasher.
For completeness: the page contains affiliate links to Amazon, and the performance claims are not backed by test data. Still, as a parts list and build sequence, it's a good starting point for me.
I came across some great news from the world of FPV racing. The second stage of the 2026 TEKNOFEST Drone Championship was held on September 5 and 6 at the Batman Athletics Track. The competition is run by the Ministry of Industry and Technology and the T3 Foundation, and the organization is led by STM.
The numbers are striking. This year 847 teams applied, and 24 pilots who completed the process from nine different provinces qualified to compete in the second stage. Each pilot flies individually with an FPV racing drone, and the judging is based on time, speed, agility and success in clearing obstacles.
The programme spans two days. On the first day there is a pilot briefing and safety orientation, followed by qualifying runs and elimination heats; the evening elimination rounds decide who advances to the finals on the second day. The second day continues with eliminations, then the final rounds, and it closes with an awards ceremony. The top three pilots receive 40,000, 30,000 and 20,000 Turkish lira respectively.
What I found most interesting were the technical rules, which are a good reference for anyone thinking about building a racing quad. The frame diameter must be between 180 and 250 mm, the battery can be at most 6S (22.2 V), and the frame must be carbon fibre. Video is analog only, and HD systems are not allowed. To prevent interference, VTX frequencies are assigned by the organizer, and VTX output power is limited to 25 mW. Pilots prepare their own ESCs, flight controllers, motors, propellers and receivers, while referees inspect the drones for safety and technical compliance.
Pilots who place in any stage of the championship earn the right to take part in the international World Drone Cup. I think it is encouraging to see FPV racing in Turkey developing such a systematic structure, and I hope this interest brings new pilots to the hobby side as well.
Source: DHA
Oscar Liang has a build guide for a small analog 1S 3-inch toothpick that really appeals to me as a park flyer. He says 1S 3-inch builds have become some of his favourites over the last few years, partly because drone regulations keep getting tighter. They are typically under 50 g, very quiet and do not need much room to fly.
His version weighs only 49 g including the battery and still manages more than five minutes of flight time. A 1S setup does not have a huge amount of punch, but he finds the performance respectable for the size, and the low noise means you can fly in many places without bothering the neighbours.
What makes the build fast is that everything is plug and play, with no soldering or complicated setup. He simply took the electronics from a BetaFPV Air65 or Air75 Tiny Whoop, specifically the Matrix 5-in-1 FC, the FPV camera and the canopy, and put them on a 3-inch Crux3 frame. The kit with frame, Happymodel 1202.5 11500KV motors and Gemfan 3018-2 props came from AliExpress, and he lists the parts separately if the kit is not available. Besides that you need four M2 screws and nylon nuts for the canopy, a rubber band to hold the battery and a small piece of foam.
A tip I liked: he often mounts only the two diagonal motor screws instead of all four, which is secure enough and saves a bit of weight, and the rubber band doubles as a motor wire holder.
For anyone who lives in a city and wants a low-stress way into FPV, this looks like a very approachable project.
Source: Oscar Liang
If you have ever mounted a flight controller upside down or rotated and then fought with roll, pitch and yaw offsets, this news is for you. According to Oscar Liang, the latest Betaflight Configurator (2026.6) includes an FC Alignment Wizard that works out the correct board orientation automatically.
Why it matters: most FCs have an arrow printed on the board showing what Betaflight treats as forward. Sometimes you cannot mount it that way. Maybe you need the USB port or SD card slot to be easier to reach, the board is flipped, or it sits at 45 degrees, which is common in micro quads and Tiny Whoops. Wrong alignment can mean the quad will not take off, flips right after arming, or shoots up as soon as you touch the throttle.
The wizard lives in the browser-based configurator under Sensors, as auto-detect board alignment. You may have to calibrate the accelerometer first. After you press Start, you put the quad flat with the camera facing away from you, tilt the nose down and bring it back level, tilt it sideways and level it again, then rotate it around the yaw axis. Betaflight measures the accelerometer response and calculates the alignment, and you press Apply.
The one reminder I like in the article is to verify the result before putting on propellers. On the Setup page, move the real quad and watch the 3D model. If it moves the wrong way, do not fly; run the wizard again.
Small feature, but it removes a confusing step for beginners, and experienced builders will save a few minutes too.
Source: Oscar Liang
A detailed write-up of the BETAFPV P1 Air Unit digital video transmitter has been published on Habr. The author explains that the FPV video market used to have only a handful of digital system makers, which you could count on one hand: DJI, Walksnail, HDZero and Siyi. Now BETAFPV, HGLRC and others have released their own systems, and enthusiasts quickly noticed that they all share the same boards with Artosyn chips.
Inside the P1 Air Unit there is an Artosyn AR9311 SoC running Linux 4.9 and BusyBox, while a separate AR8030 chip running FreeRTOS handles the radio link. The author found a UART with a root console, and the password turned out to be among a few context-based candidates. This is exactly the kind of case where the manufacturer apparently did not expect anyone to look inside.
The most interesting part comes next. Replacing the encoder stream as a whole did not work: the goggles can decode it, but not reliably. So the author used LD_PRELOAD to intercept the function that sends frames to the hardware H.265 encoder, swapping the pixels at the encoder input. As a result, the goggles show a foreign picture as if it came from the native camera. A curious detail is that the encoder compresses each 1080p frame in two independent strips (1920×560 and 1920×552), probably to keep latency low.
I think articles like this are useful even for people who just fly: they explain how the new, inexpensive digital systems are built and why they are so easy to research. Anyone interested in reverse engineering should read the full text.
Source: Habr
Before DJI's official launch, set for March 26, 2026, PickDrones gathered what had leaked about the Avata 360, and I found the overview interesting for anyone who follows the FPV world. To be clear, none of it was confirmed by DJI when the article was written on March 4.
The idea is for it to be DJI's first FPV drone with a 360° camera, following the line of the DJI FPV and Avata. The leaks pointed to panoramic video at 8K/60fps with HDR and a possible single-camera mode, in which the main sensor would work like a conventional camera. The weight was expected to be a bit heavier than the Avata 2, which weighs 377 g.
There was also talk of O4 transmission, a cinewhoop design with full spherical protection around the propellers, and four to six forward obstacle sensors. Estimated prices in China were 2,988 yuan for the drone and battery alone, 3,988 with the RC 2 controller, and 5,688 for the Fly More Combo, plus a bundle with DJI Goggles N3 at around 1,200 dollars. The main competitor would be the Insta360 Antigravity A1, at around 1,599 dollars, and the Avata 360 would cost less than half as much.
For Brazil, the author estimated R$ 4,000 to R$ 5,500 for the basic model. He also points out that above 250 g, ANAC registration and insurance are required, and that FPV flying requires direct line of sight or an observer.
Personally, I like seeing the cinewhoop category get such an affordable option, but since much of the text rests on leaks, it's worth checking the final specifications on DJI's website before deciding on any purchase.
Source: PickDrones
Dronewatch led me to an FPV simulator I want to share. ShramkoGSFPV is free, runs right in your browser, and comes from Polish developer Andrii Shramko. What makes it special is that you do not fly in a purpose-built simulation environment, but in 3D scans of real places such as buildings and streets. The project is still in alpha.
The scans are made with Gaussian Splatting, a technique where an environment is built from a huge number of tiny 3D 'splats' instead of a regular polygon mesh. The scenes come from SuperSplat, PlayCanvas's platform. At the beginning of October, the creator said more than 1,300 public scans were available to load. In Liftoff or VelociDrone you fly in environments built for the simulator, so this takes a different approach.
The flight model is a truly simulated quadcopter, by default a 2.2-inch cinewhoop in the style of the BetaFPV Pavo20 Pro, with five other presets including the Meteor65 Pro and the Air65. You can use Betaflight, Actual, KISS and Raceflight rates, and even import a Betaflight diff so your own rates and PID settings carry over. You connect an EdgeTX transmitter over USB via WebHID, although that support is still being tested.
A scan does not come with collisions by default. The simulator solves this with a voxel model that acts as invisible walls, and you can remove floating pieces or 'phantom walls' from the collision data, or turn collisions off entirely. It is also possible to import your own scan, for example from your drone, smartphone or 360 camera.
I especially like the idea of scanning a location in advance and practising your flight line at home, which seems strong for cinewhoop pilots. You do need a browser with WebGPU, for now mainly Chrome or Edge. The code is open source on GitHub under the MIT license.
Source: Dronewatch
News reached me that 15-year-old high school FPV drone racer Yuki Yamamoto won the Pro class at Round 6 of the 2025 JAPAN DRONE LEAGUE (JDL), held on September 21, 2025 at Sky Ground in Kato, Hyogo Prefecture. It is autumn 2025 news, but a young pilot's result left a strong impression on me, so I'm sharing it.
More than 50 people took part. Yamamoto qualified first, went through the semifinal, and beat his rivals in the final heat. Second place went to Rikuto Nakazawa and third to Takahiro Kodaka. It was his first championship after five years in JDL, and he said, "I've finally reached the top."
Just before that, from September 12 to 14, Yamamoto also competed at the 2025 MultiGP European Championship in Aichtal, Germany. In this event with 86 pilots from 18 countries, he qualified seventh, advanced to the A-Main (top 16), and finished 15th. The trip was funded by crowdfunding: about 1.03 million yen from 111 people. In 2024 he represented Japan at the FAI World Championship in Hangzhou, China, and the team finished third in the world.
FPV drone racing is often called the "F1 of the sky": pilots fly by watching the onboard camera feed through goggles and race at over 200 km/h on three-dimensional courses. Participants range from teens to people in their seventies, which is part of the appeal. I hope the domestic scene keeps growing.
Source: DRONE.jp
