Bentonite in homebrewing: what it is and when to use it
Jacques Bertens opens his article on Hobbybrouwen.nl with a confession: he mixed up bentonite with diatomaceous earth when he wrote on the forum about grain pests in his malt stock. He corrected that mistake, and a useful piece came out of it. I liked that an author starts so openly.
Bentonite is a clay mineral formed from weathered volcanic ash. Its negatively charged clay platelets bind the positively charged proteins that cause cold haze, after which everything settles out. Diatomaceous earth works differently: it is mainly a filter aid. PVPP also works differently, because it binds polyphenols.
On use he is clear. Not in the boil or whirlpool; there carrageenan (Irish moss, Whirlfloc) does the job better. Bentonite belongs on the cold side, after the main fermentation, when transferring to the lagering vessel. It suits clear beers such as pilsner, helles, kölsch and blonde, and less so hoppy or deliberately hazy beers like NEIPA, weizen or witbier.
The practical tips are useful. Choose food-grade sodium bentonite and let it hydrate first: 10 g in 100 ml warm water, for 4 to 8 hours or overnight. Start with 0.2 to 0.3 g per litre, so 4 to 6 g for 20 litres. Test on small samples first, because too much also strips foam and mouthfeel proteins. Expect some extra sediment and beer loss, don't dose right before bottling, and don't inhale the dry powder.
His final verdict is sober: you don't necessarily need bentonite, but if you use it, do so deliberately and at a low dose.
Source: Hobbybrouwen.nl
Bentonite is a clay mineral formed from weathered volcanic ash. Its negatively charged clay platelets bind the positively charged proteins that cause cold haze, after which everything settles out. Diatomaceous earth works differently: it is mainly a filter aid. PVPP also works differently, because it binds polyphenols.
On use he is clear. Not in the boil or whirlpool; there carrageenan (Irish moss, Whirlfloc) does the job better. Bentonite belongs on the cold side, after the main fermentation, when transferring to the lagering vessel. It suits clear beers such as pilsner, helles, kölsch and blonde, and less so hoppy or deliberately hazy beers like NEIPA, weizen or witbier.
The practical tips are useful. Choose food-grade sodium bentonite and let it hydrate first: 10 g in 100 ml warm water, for 4 to 8 hours or overnight. Start with 0.2 to 0.3 g per litre, so 4 to 6 g for 20 litres. Test on small samples first, because too much also strips foam and mouthfeel proteins. Expect some extra sediment and beer loss, don't dose right before bottling, and don't inhale the dry powder.
His final verdict is sober: you don't necessarily need bentonite, but if you use it, do so deliberately and at a low dose.
Source: Hobbybrouwen.nl
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