Monstera not growing in summer: the three real causes
In the middle of summer, a monstera should be at the height of its growth, with leaves unfurling within days. If yours has been stuck for three or four weeks, with no new bud or spathe, Jardiner Malin explains that the cause is rarely the one you would imagine. The article was published in June 2026 and updated at the end of September.
The first culprit, by far the most common, is a pot that has become too small. Once the roots have colonised the whole space, the plant keeps its energy for maintaining itself rather than producing leaves. The test is simple: turn the pot over, and if roots are poking out of the drainage hole or forming a dense mat, you have your answer. The second factor is light, because three metres from a north-facing window, the brightness drops far more than people think. A monstera tolerates shade but does not thrive in it.
The third is badly calibrated watering. The advice is to wait until the top five centimetres of compost are dry, then water generously until it runs out of the drainage holes. Once a week is often enough in summer.
For repotting, the article recommends a pot only four to five centimetres wider, never more, with a free-draining compost lightened by a third of perlite, and to add fertiliser only afterwards, every two to three weeks until the end of August. The detail I value most: small, pale leaves with no splits are a sign of insufficient light. Handy for collectors looking for beautiful fenestrated leaves.
Source: Jardiner Malin
The first culprit, by far the most common, is a pot that has become too small. Once the roots have colonised the whole space, the plant keeps its energy for maintaining itself rather than producing leaves. The test is simple: turn the pot over, and if roots are poking out of the drainage hole or forming a dense mat, you have your answer. The second factor is light, because three metres from a north-facing window, the brightness drops far more than people think. A monstera tolerates shade but does not thrive in it.
The third is badly calibrated watering. The advice is to wait until the top five centimetres of compost are dry, then water generously until it runs out of the drainage holes. Once a week is often enough in summer.
For repotting, the article recommends a pot only four to five centimetres wider, never more, with a free-draining compost lightened by a third of perlite, and to add fertiliser only afterwards, every two to three weeks until the end of August. The detail I value most: small, pale leaves with no splits are a sign of insufficient light. Handy for collectors looking for beautiful fenestrated leaves.
Source: Jardiner Malin
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