Piotr Schab sends Dobramoc 8C in Muchówka

Piotr Schab, for more than a decade one of the leaders of Polish rock climbing, has shown his strength in Muchówka. The Kraków climber has closed his longest bouldering project, and the result is Dobramoc 8C, one of the hardest boulder problems in Poland. A few days earlier he also climbed the Tatra problem Ultimate Tatras Hold'em 8B+ in Slovakia, near the hut above Popradzki Staw.

Dobramoc combines two boulders: the first part of Insomnia, which Piotr was the first to repeat in 2023, and the crux of Renesans 8B, his own problem from 2024. The starting move is around 8A and the traverse around 7C. After completing Renesans, he wrote that linking it with Insomnia would be one of the hardest and best boulders in Poland.

The road to the send was long. Schab wrote that almost two years had passed and that he had put roughly 15 sessions into the project. Muchówka is a capricious place: the holds demand good friction, and the dry, cold air with wind only shows up a few days a year. The send came in the fifth and final attempt of the evening.

So far Poland has had only one boulder graded 8C: the unrepeated Obsesja by Łukasz Dudek from 2015 in Kusięta. It is a problem of a specific character, climbed without a rope and with 40 moves.

I like that Piotr thanks everyone for the shared passion for stone, and mentions that Muchówka still hides a few gems.

Source: wspinanie.pl