Simone Tentori Climbs Insomniac V16 at Lincoln Lake

Italian climber Simone Tentori has repeated Drew Ruana's Insomniac V16 at Lincoln Lake in Colorado. Ruana established it in July 2021, and the problem adds a low start of around V13 into Dave Graham's We Can Build You V13. It has seen repeats by Shawn Raboutou, Jimmy Webb, Daniel Woods, Keenan Takahashi, Andy Lamb and Noah Wheeler, among others.

Tentori described the send on 8a.nu as a huge mental battle, fighting against the pressure of the road closure. He went on the very last day of the season, and called it one of the most intense experiences of his climbing career. That detail of a closing window is what makes this story feel so human to me.

Tentori already has a long list of hard ascents, including Sword of Damocles, Deep Fake and Ephyra, all V16, plus V15s such as Dreamtime, From Dirt Grows the Flowers, Monkey Wedding and The Finnish Line. In 2021 he made his hardest first ascent to date with Megalodonte V15 in Val Masino.

After his own first ascent of Insomniac, Ruana said it was his hardest yet and that it used to be the big project of Lincoln Lake. Now it has another repeat from one of the best boulderers around.

Source: Gripped